Day 20. Carrion to Los Condes to Leon. 63 miles

Day 20. Carrion de Los Condes to Leon. 63 miles.
Yesterday evening we visited one of the many churches in Carrion - Santa Maria del Camino. It has the most spectacular decorated wall above and behind the high altar. It's covered in a huge carved scene showing various saints focused on the Blessed Virgin Mary plus Biblical scenes, and all covered in gold.

All the churches in this town have clocks that chime the hour and the quarters, but they chime a few seconds apart. The nearest first, then a fainter one, and finally a very distant one. I tried to remember how fast sound travels. Would that account for the time lag?
Many church towers round here have storks nests on them. The old convent in a Carrion, has a rickety bell tower held up by steel scaffolding, and several nests.

In one of the tiny villages I passed through today, there was a modern church, with what I guessed must be a purpose built metal tower for them storks. They seemed quite at home.

The strong wind which had made pitching the tent so difficult continued all night. A clear sky, and temperature dropped to 9 degrees by 7am. Note to self - pack an extra blanket next camping trip. We are 900 metres above the sea, so cold nights are perhaps to be expected.
Our first stop today was at Sahagun, a small town with an Irish pub! We had a coffee and cake at a cafe opposite, then B stocked up on groceries at the local Spar.
My route took me under a high speed railway that is under construction. Yet the parallel ordinary two-tracked electrified, line more or less parallel to it seemed to be devoid of trains, at least during the half hour I cycled alongside it. Again the mystery of how Spain can justify construction of these grand pieces of infrastructure.

At Mansillas de las Mulas we stopped next to the parish pump where all the town's old men congregated to set the world to rights. I expect their wives were busy at home, cleaning and cooking while they relaxed.

The Leon campsite is 2 km off the main road up a hill. Small, with tent pitches among the pine trees - so dappled shade - and a very friendly and helpful lady who advised on where we might stock up with camping gaz.

We'll be cooking on the Trangia by tomorrow. Note to self - buy a spare full canister of gaz for the big camping stove. We'll try and cook some potatoes tonight, but if all fails, can get chips at the campsite's cafe. Campsite also has wifi, but it's a bit slow, so not attempting to add photos.

Posted with Blogsy

Day 19. Burgos to Carrion de Los Condes. 58 miles

Day 19. Burgos to Carrion de Los Condos. 58 miles.

Navigating through Burgos was straight forward for me on the bike, and would have been for Brendan except that part of the road had been closed by the time he came along, for a marathon. No diversions in place, so he had to try several side roads. This meant that I got to Olmillos de Sadamon, our agreed meeting place before Brendan. A small village with enormous church and a ruined castle. I ate a sandwich here then moved on to Villasandino where we coincided. Lunch was in Melgar de Fernamental, a small town with a charming central square. There were loads of cafés and restaurants, but almost no customers. Maybe because it is Sunday today. Melgar is just off the autovia, so maybe during the week it picks up passing trade.

I was amused, when stopping for a swig of water and an oatcake (yes, there are still some left) to be overtaken by a huge convoy of cyclists, complete with motorbike outriders, cars with full headlights on, ambulance and support van. I seem to be managing with just one support person and vehicle.

By the way, I cycled the whole way along the N-120 road, now dead quiet due to the parallel motorway, which itself was dead quiet.

Near Osorno la Mayor, the Santander to Palencia and Burgos to Leon motorways crossed at right angles, amid a clover leaf of slip roads. The N-120 wove its way through this intersection. But I seemed to be the only person using the road today. The simple fact is that round here there is a very low population. The land is a gently rolling upland plain, probably quite dry in the summer. There are vast fields of wheat wind sunflowers, but hardly any villages, and no isolated farms. At one point I noticed that I could see no houses and or cars. In the far distance to the north are mountains with snow patches still on them.

Weather today was sunny with some cloud giving shade during the morning. Moderate wind from the north east i.e mainly behind me. By mid afternoon, the wind had strengthened and it took both of us to get the tent up, me holding on to the guy ropes while Brendan did the pegging. Normally, the tent can. Be put up by one person.

Good site though.

A cafe in Carrion de los Condes