Day 13. Laperche to Mont-de-Marsan. 68 miles

Day 13. Laperche to Mont-de-Marsan. 68 miles


After breakfast said goodbye to David and Janie and set off down the road about 8.20. It was still quite cool, and I was keen to get as much distance covered as possible before the afternoon. I crossed the River Garonne at Le Mas d'Agenais. From here the road climbs over a low range of hills. Having raised the bike saddle a fraction, I found that me knee coped fine with the gradients, though I confess to choosing a back road to avoid the highest part of the main road. It was quieter too.


Brendan met me at Casteljaloux and gave me a tarte aux pommes as a snack. He went off to have a coffee while I set off for the next place - Houelles - where I had a chicken sandwich and an apple. The road hereabouts is dead straight for miles and virtually flat, and with very little traffic so I was managing a kilometre in 2 minutes. i.e. 30kph.


For a couple of hours I was passing through the western extremity of Les Landes, a vast area of woodland stretching to the horizon. Mostly pine and oak. Very few houses and no villages for the next 25 miles. But partly shaded and it seemed that a cooling breeze was blowing from the trees. Or maybe I was creating the breeze by cycling fast. We had a proper lunch break at Estigarde ( barely a hamlet) and I then turned off the main road to cycle through the villages of La Bastide d'Armagnac and Villeneuve-de-Marsan. The map showed a voie verte along and old railway track. It Was very green - not tarred, and simply a pair of gravel tracks through grass. But it was refreshingly cool. After some slow progress, I decided ordinary roads would be best. And that's how I arrived in Mont de Marsan. B had found an inexpensive hotel - the Siesta. a bit basic but clean. In fact, I did have a short siesta before going out for our meal.


David had warned us that today was a public holiday, so supermarkets would only be open in the morning. When we got to Mont-de-Marsan, pretty much everything was closed. The only restaurant, apart from pizza places, was one called La Casa. An excellent meal, menu at €23.50.

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Final preparations

It's been miserable weather this week, so my plans to get the allotment tidied up and grass cut have proved hopelessly optimistic. It was more or less dry this morning. So I drove up there with a large tray of tomato, courgette  and bean plants, which I shoved into gaps where the slugs had destroyed earlier plantings. Our friend David stopped by - he has kindly offered to water the plants if St Ives gets any dry weather!! I cut the grass too.  I picked the first almost ripe strawberries. That was my exercise for today. The allotment will have to take its chance.

I think we're all packed now. And the house is clean.

I phoned my former colleague Rosemary (she has retired as well), who cycled all the way to Compostela 17 years ago. She will be lighting some candles and saying a few Hail Marys for me. Rosemary is walking to Compostela in stages with her daughter. This summer's walk will be near Perigueux in France.

I phoned several family members, including Nick and Christine, who will be travelling on the Edinburgh Trams tomorrow (opening day).

Brendan has been spending some time poring over maps and making notes of which towns and villages he will have to drive through. His big challenge is to get to our destinations without me to navigate. We're only doing 60 miles a day average, so he can take his time.

Finally, a blessing from our friend Yvonne in Oxford. "May the Goddess Isis, Star of the Sea, guard and guide you on your journey. May there be helping hands and friendly hearts every step of the way." Appropriate in two ways - we'll be crossing the sea to get to France, and Compostela means 'Field of Stars'.