We booked into the Hosteria del Refugio, which is a village inn.
Here are a few photos of the village to give a flavour.
Tuesday, 17 June 2014
Day 21. Part 2. Rabanal del Camino
Rabanal is an old stone village high up in the mountains, something like 1150 metres above the sea. The village looks like a collection of farms grouped together. But every building seems to be in good repair, and there are some that look new.
We booked into the Hosteria del Refugio, which is a village inn.
They do meals and there is a bar.
Here are a few photos of the village to give a flavour.
We booked into the Hosteria del Refugio, which is a village inn.
Here are a few photos of the village to give a flavour.
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Day 21. Leon to Rabanal del Camino.49 miles
Day 21. Leon to Rabanal del Camino. 49 miles.
The last day of flat terrain. I think. Leaving the campsite about 9am, I headed straight through the city of Leon, with a short detour to the cathedral where I got my Pilgrim a Record stamped (at the cathedral museum ticket office, actually). Crossed the river on an ancient stone bridge now pedestrianised. Coming out of the city, I rejoined the N-120 road which led me through some rather dull straggly suburbs, all of which had plenty of cafes, restaurants, hostels and hotels, all with an eye to the pilgrim tourist trade. Plenty of pilgrims on foot. Weather fairly cool this morning, as it has been the last couple of days, so ideal for cycling. I could see the parallel motorway as I moved along the N-120. The motorway had far less traffic than the N-120. The tolls must have something to do with this.
Our 6lb Camping Gaz cylinder is about to run out, and we hadn't managed to identify a stockist, so B called in at a hypermarket and bought a small camping stove plus some gas cylinders. Hope it's a kind that can be bought in the UK.
We met up at Hospital de Orbiga for my early sandwich. This is many charming small town on the Camino taking its name from an early religious foundation for pilgrims. There was a pharmacy nearby, so I bought some cream to help my cracked lip. The pharmacist blamed the sun, which was true, but the crusty bread didn't help. It's a Neutragena product and also has factor 30 sun block in it.
Second stop was at Astorga, a hilltop cathedral city of modest size. On entering the city, I saw the first moving train I'd seen since coming to Spain. There have been very few railway in the area we've been crossing, so railways are few and far between, and probably lowish traffic density. Next the cathedral is a Bishop's Palace, designed by the famous architect, Gaudi. Only €3 to get in. A splendid building if somewhat bizarre, and wholly impractical as a residence for a bishop, and not a patch on his Sagrada Familia church in Barcelona.
The last 20km today took me out into wilder countryside. The road climbed fairly steadily, passing a few very old, stone villages. The landscape changed. No cultivation any more, just miles of scrubby woodland of stunted oaks, some willow, and an undergrowth of some kind of heather. The pine, trees hereabouts seemed to have been planted rather than wild.
Rabanal, when I got there proved to be a substantial village with many places for pilgrims to eat, drink and sleep. There are a couple of food shops too. As the last place before the fierce ascent to the Cruz de Ferro, this looks a prosperous wee place. It would be a ghost town without the pilgrims. We're booked into the Hosteria el Refugio, which is basically a village inn. Going to have a shower, then a walk round the village, then a beer.
The last day of flat terrain. I think. Leaving the campsite about 9am, I headed straight through the city of Leon, with a short detour to the cathedral where I got my Pilgrim a Record stamped (at the cathedral museum ticket office, actually). Crossed the river on an ancient stone bridge now pedestrianised. Coming out of the city, I rejoined the N-120 road which led me through some rather dull straggly suburbs, all of which had plenty of cafes, restaurants, hostels and hotels, all with an eye to the pilgrim tourist trade. Plenty of pilgrims on foot. Weather fairly cool this morning, as it has been the last couple of days, so ideal for cycling. I could see the parallel motorway as I moved along the N-120. The motorway had far less traffic than the N-120. The tolls must have something to do with this.
Our 6lb Camping Gaz cylinder is about to run out, and we hadn't managed to identify a stockist, so B called in at a hypermarket and bought a small camping stove plus some gas cylinders. Hope it's a kind that can be bought in the UK.
We met up at Hospital de Orbiga for my early sandwich. This is many charming small town on the Camino taking its name from an early religious foundation for pilgrims. There was a pharmacy nearby, so I bought some cream to help my cracked lip. The pharmacist blamed the sun, which was true, but the crusty bread didn't help. It's a Neutragena product and also has factor 30 sun block in it.
Second stop was at Astorga, a hilltop cathedral city of modest size. On entering the city, I saw the first moving train I'd seen since coming to Spain. There have been very few railway in the area we've been crossing, so railways are few and far between, and probably lowish traffic density. Next the cathedral is a Bishop's Palace, designed by the famous architect, Gaudi. Only €3 to get in. A splendid building if somewhat bizarre, and wholly impractical as a residence for a bishop, and not a patch on his Sagrada Familia church in Barcelona.
The last 20km today took me out into wilder countryside. The road climbed fairly steadily, passing a few very old, stone villages. The landscape changed. No cultivation any more, just miles of scrubby woodland of stunted oaks, some willow, and an undergrowth of some kind of heather. The pine, trees hereabouts seemed to have been planted rather than wild.
Rabanal, when I got there proved to be a substantial village with many places for pilgrims to eat, drink and sleep. There are a couple of food shops too. As the last place before the fierce ascent to the Cruz de Ferro, this looks a prosperous wee place. It would be a ghost town without the pilgrims. We're booked into the Hosteria el Refugio, which is basically a village inn. Going to have a shower, then a walk round the village, then a beer.
Monday, 16 June 2014
Day 20. Carrion to Los Condes to Leon. 63 miles
Day 20. Carrion de Los Condes to Leon. 63 miles.
Yesterday evening we visited one of the many churches in Carrion - Santa Maria del Camino. It has the most spectacular decorated wall above and behind the high altar. It's covered in a huge carved scene showing various saints focused on the Blessed Virgin Mary plus Biblical scenes, and all covered in gold.
All the churches in this town have clocks that chime the hour and the quarters, but they chime a few seconds apart. The nearest first, then a fainter one, and finally a very distant one. I tried to remember how fast sound travels. Would that account for the time lag?
Many church towers round here have storks nests on them. The old convent in a Carrion, has a rickety bell tower held up by steel scaffolding, and several nests.
In one of the tiny villages I passed through today, there was a modern church, with what I guessed must be a purpose built metal tower for them storks. They seemed quite at home.
The strong wind which had made pitching the tent so difficult continued all night. A clear sky, and temperature dropped to 9 degrees by 7am. Note to self - pack an extra blanket next camping trip. We are 900 metres above the sea, so cold nights are perhaps to be expected.
Our first stop today was at Sahagun, a small town with an Irish pub! We had a coffee and cake at a cafe opposite, then B stocked up on groceries at the local Spar.
My route took me under a high speed railway that is under construction. Yet the parallel ordinary two-tracked electrified, line more or less parallel to it seemed to be devoid of trains, at least during the half hour I cycled alongside it. Again the mystery of how Spain can justify construction of these grand pieces of infrastructure.
At Mansillas de las Mulas we stopped next to the parish pump where all the town's old men congregated to set the world to rights. I expect their wives were busy at home, cleaning and cooking while they relaxed.
The Leon campsite is 2 km off the main road up a hill. Small, with tent pitches among the pine trees - so dappled shade - and a very friendly and helpful lady who advised on where we might stock up with camping gaz.
We'll be cooking on the Trangia by tomorrow. Note to self - buy a spare full canister of gaz for the big camping stove. We'll try and cook some potatoes tonight, but if all fails, can get chips at the campsite's cafe. Campsite also has wifi, but it's a bit slow, so not attempting to add photos.
Yesterday evening we visited one of the many churches in Carrion - Santa Maria del Camino. It has the most spectacular decorated wall above and behind the high altar. It's covered in a huge carved scene showing various saints focused on the Blessed Virgin Mary plus Biblical scenes, and all covered in gold.
All the churches in this town have clocks that chime the hour and the quarters, but they chime a few seconds apart. The nearest first, then a fainter one, and finally a very distant one. I tried to remember how fast sound travels. Would that account for the time lag?
Many church towers round here have storks nests on them. The old convent in a Carrion, has a rickety bell tower held up by steel scaffolding, and several nests.
In one of the tiny villages I passed through today, there was a modern church, with what I guessed must be a purpose built metal tower for them storks. They seemed quite at home.
The strong wind which had made pitching the tent so difficult continued all night. A clear sky, and temperature dropped to 9 degrees by 7am. Note to self - pack an extra blanket next camping trip. We are 900 metres above the sea, so cold nights are perhaps to be expected.
Our first stop today was at Sahagun, a small town with an Irish pub! We had a coffee and cake at a cafe opposite, then B stocked up on groceries at the local Spar.
My route took me under a high speed railway that is under construction. Yet the parallel ordinary two-tracked electrified, line more or less parallel to it seemed to be devoid of trains, at least during the half hour I cycled alongside it. Again the mystery of how Spain can justify construction of these grand pieces of infrastructure.
At Mansillas de las Mulas we stopped next to the parish pump where all the town's old men congregated to set the world to rights. I expect their wives were busy at home, cleaning and cooking while they relaxed.
We'll be cooking on the Trangia by tomorrow. Note to self - buy a spare full canister of gaz for the big camping stove. We'll try and cook some potatoes tonight, but if all fails, can get chips at the campsite's cafe. Campsite also has wifi, but it's a bit slow, so not attempting to add photos.
Day 19. Burgos to Carrion de Los Condes. 58 miles
Day 19. Burgos to Carrion de Los Condos. 58 miles.
Navigating through Burgos was straight forward for me on the bike, and would have been for Brendan except that part of the road had been closed by the time he came along, for a marathon. No diversions in place, so he had to try several side roads. This meant that I got to Olmillos de Sadamon, our agreed meeting place before Brendan. A small village with enormous church and a ruined castle. I ate a sandwich here then moved on to Villasandino where we coincided. Lunch was in Melgar de Fernamental, a small town with a charming central square. There were loads of cafés and restaurants, but almost no customers. Maybe because it is Sunday today. Melgar is just off the autovia, so maybe during the week it picks up passing trade.
I was amused, when stopping for a swig of water and an oatcake (yes, there are still some left) to be overtaken by a huge convoy of cyclists, complete with motorbike outriders, cars with full headlights on, ambulance and support van. I seem to be managing with just one support person and vehicle.
By the way, I cycled the whole way along the N-120 road, now dead quiet due to the parallel motorway, which itself was dead quiet.
Near Osorno la Mayor, the Santander to Palencia and Burgos to Leon motorways crossed at right angles, amid a clover leaf of slip roads. The N-120 wove its way through this intersection. But I seemed to be the only person using the road today. The simple fact is that round here there is a very low population. The land is a gently rolling upland plain, probably quite dry in the summer. There are vast fields of wheat wind sunflowers, but hardly any villages, and no isolated farms. At one point I noticed that I could see no houses and or cars. In the far distance to the north are mountains with snow patches still on them.
Weather today was sunny with some cloud giving shade during the morning. Moderate wind from the north east i.e mainly behind me. By mid afternoon, the wind had strengthened and it took both of us to get the tent up, me holding on to the guy ropes while Brendan did the pegging. Normally, the tent can. Be put up by one person.
Good site though.
Navigating through Burgos was straight forward for me on the bike, and would have been for Brendan except that part of the road had been closed by the time he came along, for a marathon. No diversions in place, so he had to try several side roads. This meant that I got to Olmillos de Sadamon, our agreed meeting place before Brendan. A small village with enormous church and a ruined castle. I ate a sandwich here then moved on to Villasandino where we coincided. Lunch was in Melgar de Fernamental, a small town with a charming central square. There were loads of cafés and restaurants, but almost no customers. Maybe because it is Sunday today. Melgar is just off the autovia, so maybe during the week it picks up passing trade.
I was amused, when stopping for a swig of water and an oatcake (yes, there are still some left) to be overtaken by a huge convoy of cyclists, complete with motorbike outriders, cars with full headlights on, ambulance and support van. I seem to be managing with just one support person and vehicle.
By the way, I cycled the whole way along the N-120 road, now dead quiet due to the parallel motorway, which itself was dead quiet.
Near Osorno la Mayor, the Santander to Palencia and Burgos to Leon motorways crossed at right angles, amid a clover leaf of slip roads. The N-120 wove its way through this intersection. But I seemed to be the only person using the road today. The simple fact is that round here there is a very low population. The land is a gently rolling upland plain, probably quite dry in the summer. There are vast fields of wheat wind sunflowers, but hardly any villages, and no isolated farms. At one point I noticed that I could see no houses and or cars. In the far distance to the north are mountains with snow patches still on them.
Weather today was sunny with some cloud giving shade during the morning. Moderate wind from the north east i.e mainly behind me. By mid afternoon, the wind had strengthened and it took both of us to get the tent up, me holding on to the guy ropes while Brendan did the pegging. Normally, the tent can. Be put up by one person.
Good site though.
 |
| A cafe in Carrion de los Condes |
Day 18. Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Burgos. 46 miles
Day 18. Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Burgos. 46 miles.
Although the Parador hotel in Santo Domingo was lovely, I didn't get much sleep. Partly I'd had a coffee after my evening meal at a small cafe that did a €10 menu, and partly because of the clock tower in the cathedral square just outside our window which struck the quarters as well as the hours.
The breakfast was a huge buffet including cold meats and fish, salami, bacon, eggs, fish, 2 kinds of tortilla, fruit, breads, pastries, yogurt, cereals, etc. A great foundation for a day on the bike.
It was cooler today, and ideal cycling conditions. My route, following German guide book veered off the main road and was mostly flat and straight and took me past a village where they specialise on growing pimentos, and pasta huge sodium sulphate mine. I think that is gypsum.
We met at Belorado where my loop road joined back into the main N-120. Despite being a road that is in process of conversion to a motorway, the traffic level was similar to a Country B road in the UK, a gradual climb as far as the village of Villafranca-Montes de Oca. Turning a corner I was faced with a sign saying gradient 16% for 3 km. similar to the Pyrenees but shorter. The summit was at Puerto de la Pedraja at 1150 metres, so a bit higher than Scafell Pike. But remember the area round here is mainly at about 800-900 metres, so 1150 isn't that enormous. Brendan had found a delightful picnic spot just past the summit, opposite a ruined chapel, and next to an ancient well with water spouting from a carved sheep's head.The picnickers seats were built from old stone kilometre posts, I read somewhere.
The rest of the route to Burgos was gently downhill and I managed probably 30 mph most of the way. Great campsite. But then the ideal day disintegrated. I could not find my Pilgrim a Record. That's the wee booklet which I got from the Confraternity of Saint James to record my journey by having motels, churches, campsites, ECG, stamp it. A phone call to the hotel revealed that I'd left it in our room. So back to Santo Domingo in the car to pick it up. I was very relieved the book had turned up. I was also relieved to know that the section of the main road I'd bypassed had quite a few hills on it, so probably I'd made the right decision.
Although the Parador hotel in Santo Domingo was lovely, I didn't get much sleep. Partly I'd had a coffee after my evening meal at a small cafe that did a €10 menu, and partly because of the clock tower in the cathedral square just outside our window which struck the quarters as well as the hours.
The breakfast was a huge buffet including cold meats and fish, salami, bacon, eggs, fish, 2 kinds of tortilla, fruit, breads, pastries, yogurt, cereals, etc. A great foundation for a day on the bike.
It was cooler today, and ideal cycling conditions. My route, following German guide book veered off the main road and was mostly flat and straight and took me past a village where they specialise on growing pimentos, and pasta huge sodium sulphate mine. I think that is gypsum.
We met at Belorado where my loop road joined back into the main N-120. Despite being a road that is in process of conversion to a motorway, the traffic level was similar to a Country B road in the UK, a gradual climb as far as the village of Villafranca-Montes de Oca. Turning a corner I was faced with a sign saying gradient 16% for 3 km. similar to the Pyrenees but shorter. The summit was at Puerto de la Pedraja at 1150 metres, so a bit higher than Scafell Pike. But remember the area round here is mainly at about 800-900 metres, so 1150 isn't that enormous. Brendan had found a delightful picnic spot just past the summit, opposite a ruined chapel, and next to an ancient well with water spouting from a carved sheep's head.The picnickers seats were built from old stone kilometre posts, I read somewhere.
The rest of the route to Burgos was gently downhill and I managed probably 30 mph most of the way. Great campsite. But then the ideal day disintegrated. I could not find my Pilgrim a Record. That's the wee booklet which I got from the Confraternity of Saint James to record my journey by having motels, churches, campsites, ECG, stamp it. A phone call to the hotel revealed that I'd left it in our room. So back to Santo Domingo in the car to pick it up. I was very relieved the book had turned up. I was also relieved to know that the section of the main road I'd bypassed had quite a few hills on it, so probably I'd made the right decision.
Friday, 13 June 2014
Day 17. Iratxe to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. 65miles
A day of surprises and changed plans - which is putting a brave face on it.
I set off well before 8 to get the best of the cool part of the day. We planned to meet up in Logrono for my first lunch, but Brendan found the Logrono signage tricky, and we decided to meet in the next town, Navarrete. The route recommended by my guide book Jakobs-Radweg : von
den Pyrenaen nach Santiago de Compostela (yes, it's in German, and, no, I don't know much German, but it's the best I could find at Stanford's) took me along the banks of the River Ebro, with a stiff climb at one point and then couple of miles on a gravel track. A bit slower than ideal.
Over my second lunch at Navarrete, we agreed to press on to Najera, a small town with a campsite. In fact it was a beautiful place, if you ignore the outer suburbs. But the campsite is no longer in business. By now it was getting hot, but maybe not so hot as yesterday, so we decided to press on to Santo Domingo. The motorway runs out just beyond Najera, and I took the main road which climbed very gradually over a low range of hills. Traffic wasn't that heavy, there were long gaps between lorries and cars, so I wonder why they are bothering to build a motorway. Each tiny village seems to have its own motorway junction, and the village of Hormilla (maybe 1000 inhabitants) has sprouted three giant roundabouts.
Reached the campsite OK. But then the plan went agley. The campsite consisted mostly of holiday chalets. At the far end was a camping filed beautifully laid out, with young trees marking out the plot boundaries. The servicios were beautiful and new. But they'd forgotten perhaps the most important thing - ground you can actually get tent pegs into. I chatted to a Dutch couple who were doing the El Cid trail by bicycle. They'd managed to get their small tent up, but had a different type of peg from us. The man from the campsite tried to help, but really just succeeded in bending our pegs even more. Do not go to www.campingbabares.es if you have a tent.
So we packed the tent up again and headed into town to find a hotel. The centre of Santa Domingo is all small streets, semi pedestrianised, old stone houses. We're in luxury at the Parador hotel opposite the Cathedral. The room has a balcony opening over the front of the Hotel overlooking the cathedral square.
But on the plus side, I covered 65 miles which isn't bad considering the weather.
I set off well before 8 to get the best of the cool part of the day. We planned to meet up in Logrono for my first lunch, but Brendan found the Logrono signage tricky, and we decided to meet in the next town, Navarrete. The route recommended by my guide book Jakobs-Radweg : von
den Pyrenaen nach Santiago de Compostela (yes, it's in German, and, no, I don't know much German, but it's the best I could find at Stanford's) took me along the banks of the River Ebro, with a stiff climb at one point and then couple of miles on a gravel track. A bit slower than ideal.
Over my second lunch at Navarrete, we agreed to press on to Najera, a small town with a campsite. In fact it was a beautiful place, if you ignore the outer suburbs. But the campsite is no longer in business. By now it was getting hot, but maybe not so hot as yesterday, so we decided to press on to Santo Domingo. The motorway runs out just beyond Najera, and I took the main road which climbed very gradually over a low range of hills. Traffic wasn't that heavy, there were long gaps between lorries and cars, so I wonder why they are bothering to build a motorway. Each tiny village seems to have its own motorway junction, and the village of Hormilla (maybe 1000 inhabitants) has sprouted three giant roundabouts.
Reached the campsite OK. But then the plan went agley. The campsite consisted mostly of holiday chalets. At the far end was a camping filed beautifully laid out, with young trees marking out the plot boundaries. The servicios were beautiful and new. But they'd forgotten perhaps the most important thing - ground you can actually get tent pegs into. I chatted to a Dutch couple who were doing the El Cid trail by bicycle. They'd managed to get their small tent up, but had a different type of peg from us. The man from the campsite tried to help, but really just succeeded in bending our pegs even more. Do not go to www.campingbabares.es if you have a tent.
So we packed the tent up again and headed into town to find a hotel. The centre of Santa Domingo is all small streets, semi pedestrianised, old stone houses. We're in luxury at the Parador hotel opposite the Cathedral. The room has a balcony opening over the front of the Hotel overlooking the cathedral square.
But on the plus side, I covered 65 miles which isn't bad considering the weather.
Thursday, 12 June 2014
Day 16. Pamplona to Iratxe. 39 miles
A shortish day in distance, but quite stressful due to the heat. It was cool and misty to begin with but the sun soon came through unfortunately.
I set off about 8 to get as much distance in before the afternoon. Getting through Pamplona was slow but I did manage to pass by the famous bullring. A few miles on, I had to climb over a range of hills called Alto de Perdon. A line of wind generators topped the ridge, and they were whizzing round. But the only breeze I could feel was on the downhill after the summit. This was the old N111 road bypassed by a motorway (N12) which tunnels under the hill. But even the motorway was pretty quiet. It doesn't surprise me that Spain has had financial problems. They've certainly spent a lot on infrastructure such as improvements to very quiet roads.
Stopped in the little town of Puenta de Reina for a morning break.
Then followed an hour and a half of switchback with the road virtually to myself. Getting hotter. Finally I caught up with Brendan in the cafe of the 'Simply' super mercado in Estella. I had two cold drinks there while we discussed strategy. The plan of getting to Logrono seemed impossible in the heat, so we decided to stop at Iratxe about 3 miles further on.
Although this is a pilgrimage, it's not a penance. I think I am due a rest day, so maybe two shorter days will have to count instead. Tomorrow I'll set off even earlier and hope to travel a 50 mile stage before the heat sets in.
Encountered multitudes of foot pilgrims, but chances for conversation didn't arise. Their route is official, whereas the cycle route isn't. Sometimes they coincide, sometimes not.
Free wifi at the campsite but it only works close to the reception/supermarket/restaurant/bar building. So having an ice cool cerveza (i.e. beer) while writing my blog and checking my emails.
The weather forecast for Northern Spain continues hot tomorrow, then slightly cooler at the weekend with perhaps some rain on Sunday.
I set off about 8 to get as much distance in before the afternoon. Getting through Pamplona was slow but I did manage to pass by the famous bullring. A few miles on, I had to climb over a range of hills called Alto de Perdon. A line of wind generators topped the ridge, and they were whizzing round. But the only breeze I could feel was on the downhill after the summit. This was the old N111 road bypassed by a motorway (N12) which tunnels under the hill. But even the motorway was pretty quiet. It doesn't surprise me that Spain has had financial problems. They've certainly spent a lot on infrastructure such as improvements to very quiet roads.
Stopped in the little town of Puenta de Reina for a morning break.
Then followed an hour and a half of switchback with the road virtually to myself. Getting hotter. Finally I caught up with Brendan in the cafe of the 'Simply' super mercado in Estella. I had two cold drinks there while we discussed strategy. The plan of getting to Logrono seemed impossible in the heat, so we decided to stop at Iratxe about 3 miles further on.
Although this is a pilgrimage, it's not a penance. I think I am due a rest day, so maybe two shorter days will have to count instead. Tomorrow I'll set off even earlier and hope to travel a 50 mile stage before the heat sets in.
Encountered multitudes of foot pilgrims, but chances for conversation didn't arise. Their route is official, whereas the cycle route isn't. Sometimes they coincide, sometimes not.
The weather forecast for Northern Spain continues hot tomorrow, then slightly cooler at the weekend with perhaps some rain on Sunday.
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